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The Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

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Cheap Flights to Buenos Aires

A green oasis on the eastern end of the big city, the ecological reserve of the Costanera Sur offers an escape from the humdrum of daily life. Walking along of the reserve’s paths, through wild growing pampas grass, it’s difficult to believe that this is still Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires

The Reserva Ecológica feels like an untamed area that’s always been a part of the landscape, but nothing could be further from the truth. This terrain didn’t even exist until the 1970s, when the city decided to “reclaim” land from the river for development, following a procedure learned from the Dutch. The project was abandoned after progress had already begun and, soon enough, plants and animals had moved onto the rich sediment. Where the Rio de la Plata had flowed throughout history, humanity had inadvertently built a home for a richly diverse wildlife. Usually works the other way around.

The city wasted no time in declaring the region an “Ecological Reserve”, and the new park quickly became popular among bird watchers, joggers, and those looking for a break from the stress of Buenos Aires. At over 860 acres, with many kilometers worth of track, a comprehensive tour of the park can take hours. There’s a lot to see; besides the wildlife, the magnificent skyline of Puerto Madero looms in the background. Walk far enough and you’ll reach the river, vast and gray. But for the cargo ships floating in the distance, it could be the world’s biggest puddle.

We make use of the Reserva constantly for jogging, and almost always encounter something new. On my last visit, a huge monitor lizard scuttled across the path in front of me. Jürgen has found turtles. We’ve also taken a bike trip through the park, which is recommendable. But regardless of how you move through the Costanera, you’re bound to have an interesting time.

Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
Northern Entrance on our BA Map
Southern Entrance on our BA Map
La Bicicleta Naranja’s Website
Location of La Bicicleta Naranja

Orange Bike Buenos Aires
Butterfly
Contrast Buenos Aires
Jogging Buenos Aires
Fly To Buenos Aires
Naked Buenos Aires
Nature Buenos Aires
Nature Fabric
Summer Buenos Aires
Sneaky Bird
Crazy Bird
Dry Field
Sailing Buenos Aires
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April 22, 2011 at 12:18 am Comments (3)

Caballito – The Middle of the City

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Explore Buenos Aires

The geographic center of Buenos Aires is Caballito, a charming neighborhood with large green spaces, and well served by the Subte. Although it’s not on the top of the normal tourist itinerary, this barrio has enough highlights to make it worth a trip.

Centenario Buenos Aires

We began our excursion at the perfectly round Parque Centenario, designed by master urban planner Carlos Thays (also responsible for the Jardín Botánico). Though the park looked cool enough, we happened to arrive at the same time as a massive thunderstorm, and sought shelter in the Natural History Museum.

Nature History Museum

Along with approximately 39,403 screeching Argentinian rugrats, we drip-dried while looking at fossils, animal replicas and fish. The focus was on on native Argentine fossils and dinosaurs, such as the giant glyptodon, and it was fascinating to see the differences between prehistoric life here, versus in the USA. Their prehistoric monsters seem cuter, somehow. Though we hadn’t planned on a visit, the museum was a fun place to escape the rain. But if you’re allergic to children, you might want to stay away.

Once the downpour ceased, we walked along Avenida Rivadavia, a boisterous shopping street. It was a nice alternative to the more famous and ultra-touristy shopping zones in Retiro, with stores of comparable quality. And it was relieving to be surrounded by Argentines who weren’t continually shoving Tango Show fliers into our faces. We walked past the Parque Rivadavia, and browsed the offers at a second-hand book market. I bought an old Superman comic for a few pesos, and then sat down for a drink in El Coleccionista, a bar notable which still serves as a meeting place for different groups of collectors.

Book Market Buenos Aires

Fully rested, we ventured onto the other side of Calle Rivadavia and into the Mercado del Progreso. Behind its wonderful art deco facade is a lively goods and produce market, which has been a staple of the neighborhood since 1889. It was cool but we didn’t spend much time inside; the day was getting late, and we didn’t want to miss out on an historic tram ride.

The Tranvía Histórico de Caballito offers free trips around a small section of the neighborhood. Until 1963, trams had been one of the primary modes of transportation in Buenos Aires, linking the city’s 48 barrios to one another. Out-of-use tracks are still visible in between the cobblestones of many of the older streets, and the Asociación de Amigos del Tranvía seeks to remember this history by operating one last route. It’s a fun ride; a quick 20-minute trip into the romantic past.

Tram Ride Buenos Aires

The tram skirts around a section of Caballito known as the Barrio Inglés, long one of Buenos Aires’ most fashionable residential areas. The small area occupies just a few blocks, and has somehow survived intact into the present day. Built in the late 1800s as homes for British train executives, the Georgian- and Victorian-style houses are gorgeous, and cost a small fortune. This is one of those areas in Buenos Aires where vigilant security guards will watch your movements carefully.

Enjoy our pictures of Caballito! We’re making an effort to explore some of the less well-charted areas of Buenos Aires… if there are other great neighborhoods which not many tourists get to see, let us know!

Ducks
Stone Beast
Bird Argentina
Bird Collection
Flamingo
Insect Collection
See Stern
Skull
Blubber Beast
Simon Bolivar Buenos Aires
Lady and Sons
Beer Snack
Qiulmes
Market Buenos Aires
Malinesas
Market Caballito
Tracks Buenos Aires
Yellow Tram
Old Tram Buenos Aires
Tourist Tramway
Tramway Argentina
Tramway
Tramway Historico
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April 11, 2011 at 7:55 pm Comments (4)
The Reserva Ecolgica Costanera Sur
For 91 Days