Belgrano “R” – Resplendent, Residential, Revoltingly Rich
Hello boys and girls, and welcome to Belgrano “R”. Let’s play a game! Everyone think of an “R”-word that describes this lovely neighborhood!
Residential? Yes that’s right, Bobby. Very clever!
Rich? Indeed, how true! Gold star for Judy!
Ridiculous? I suppose that works too, Jürgen, though I don’t much care for that one.
Fascist? MICHAEL! Sigh, that doesn’t even begin with “R”… and put your fist down, you irritating little twit. There will be no populist uprisings in Belgrano “R”!
The northern barrio of Belgrano is split into a few sub-neighborhoods, two of which are known as “R” and “C”. The letters come from the names of the train stations “Rosario” and “Central”, but most porteños assign different meanings to the abbreviations: Belgrano “R” for residential, and Belgrano “C” for China. We’d already checked out China Town during the New Year celebrations, and returned recently to explore the more upscale section of the barrio.
With broad, tree-lined streets and Victorian-style homes, Belgrano “R” is easily the most dignified neighborhood we’ve seen in Buenos Aires. This section of town was settled by wealthy British expatriates, and the gates and well-maintained gardens are clearly reminiscent of England. After a good lunch at Jolie Bistro, near the train station, we set off to explore. With sunlight filtering through the leaves of the trees, and so many fascinating houses to photograph, we couldn’t have been happier.
But the joy didn’t last long. The very first time Jürgen hauled out his camera, in front of a house which might as well have been a castle, a portly security guard shouted at us from behind the gate. “¡No es museo! ¿Que quieren ustedes? ¡Esta es una residencia privada!” Geez, we just liked the house. Sorry to have been impressed by a building clearly designed to impress people.
This scenario repeated itself throughout the day. Private security guards were set up on every corner of Belgrano “R” in tan-brown boxes that resembled phone booths. Every time Jürgen started taking pictures, some blustery guard would run over to us and start asking questions. I suppose that’s their job and, once their curiosity was satisfied, they always allowed us to continue, but it was awfully annoying. Even when we weren’t taking pictures, the guards kept a careful eye on us. “Strangers”.
Still, Belgrano “R” is a beautiful neighborhood. There’s clearly a lot of money here, and perhaps the exaggerated security measures are necessary. Anyway, enjoy the pictures… I think in the end, it was worth the hassle.
Estacion Belgrano R on our Buenos Aires Map
The picture of the vein-like trees winding towards the sky amidst big houses is one of the best that Jogi has ever taken.
I’ve loved this article and the pictures tambien!
Holy Buckets ! Add some Spanish Moss….Savannah. Well, also with a few less security concerns about shady looking “visitors”.
Thanks for torturing me with gorgeous pics of houses I cannot afford to buy but if I could I`d have all the money security can buy too. God help rich people and their miserable lives :>))
You weren’t even taking photos of Belgrano “R.” Yes, at the cusp. But, if you’re going to cast socio-economic aspersions, at least give real evidence. What you showed was Belgrano “C.” And, yes, it is nice. The reality is that both are places where the wealthier live. But at least they can live in their houses because their families have spent all their lives here, and don’t not rent in Palermo ( or wherever), essentially gentrifying the neighborhood because their parents have foot the bill for a two-year stay in a foreign country.
Please forgive the aggressive tone. On the other hand, check out Belgrano “R” and you will be surprised by the variety of apartments and houses you find.
Ciao.
We are pretty sure that we were in Belgrano “R”… we did research into exactly what streets bound the sub-neighborhood, and also talked with a few locals. The pictures from this post were all from the area slightly southwest of the Estación Belgrano R.
Dear, Jesus, sorry but you have not idea of what you say! It’s definitely Belgrano R, in fact I was born there. The second picture after the food ones is the Mansio Hirsch, located in front of the Belgrano R park, most of the rest are residences located over Melian Ave and soem in Forest. Walking around the area would save you this embarrasment.
Greetings
My apologies then. Though, I still feel that Belgrano R really doesn’t start until one hits Cabildo/Maso and Juramento. Darn, I’ve even been told you have to go deeper into car country (Cramer) in order to even begin to touch the residential part of Belgrano. But that’s just me.
Sorry, I became sensitive to the tone of the blog. I just feel it’s a nice area and isn’t like the Las Canitas/Belgrano part I felt was being shown.
Don’t apologize at all, it is certainly my neibourhood, I was born over Superi Street and lived my entire life there, you were certainly walking on Melian Ave. definitely Belgrano R not C as some pretended genius argued. Wonderful pictures. Greetings from Buenos Aires.
Good article,I live in Argentina in Belgrano “R” and yes, that’s belgrano “R” you even took pictures of the school I used to go and the street I live in.
the nomenclature that dsitinguen the zone of Belgrano is merely a nomenclatura quedistinguen zones nothing more. I believe that I grew up in the cincinnati area for a long time. For the rest very good your note.
This is Belgrano R, my beautiful old neighborhood…thank you so much for the beautiful pictures, and this article. It brought beautiful memories, and tears, so much nostalgia now that I live overseas.