Yrurtia’s Canto al Trabajo
I'll remember Roger Yrurtia for two things. One: for having a last name so ridiculously intimidating that I won't even try to pronounce it. And, two: for his gorgeous sculpture called Canto al Trabajo ("Song to Work").
I'll remember Roger Yrurtia for two things. One: for having a last name so ridiculously intimidating that I won't even try to pronounce it. And, two: for his gorgeous sculpture called Canto al Trabajo ("Song to Work").
The barrio of Mataderos, former home to Buenos Aires' slaughterhouses, has always been tightly linked to gaucho culture and the meat industry. In fact, the neighborhood is also known as "Nueva Chicago": a nickname the local football team still plays under.
Tierra Santa, found in Palermo's Parque Norte next to the Newbery Airport, is a Jesus-themed fun park. Though, calling it "fun" might be stretching the truth a bit.
Fleeing the yellow fever which was devastating the city's southern barrios at the beginning of the 20th century, Buenos Aires' most wealthy families established fabulous residences around Retiro's Plaza San Martín. None were more extravagant than the Palacio Paz.
Buenos Aires' trendiest residential neighborhood is probably its most bizarre. Even though it's physically close to the historic center, Puerto Madero almost feels like a completely different city.
The biggest park in San Telmo is Lezama, a giant green hill which fills up on weekends with sun-bathers, mate drinkers and chess players, along with some market stands. The park also is home to the Museo Histórico Nacional.
Occupying a good chunk of the block sketched out by Estados Unidos, Defensa, Carlos Calvo and Bolivar, the Mercado de San Telmo is a place which locals and tourists visit in almost equal numbers. The latter to buy antiques and souvenirs, the former for their day-to-day groceries.
There's no reason to leave Buenos Aires to experience the different cultures of the world. So many people and cultures from all around the globe have established a strong presence here... the Bolivian neighborhoods of Liniers, Chinatown in Belgrano, the Italian heritage in La Boca, and Once with its Jewish population are just some of them. There's even a Valencian community which celebrates Fallas in Buenos Aires!
Around the corner from the ostentatious Palacio Paz is the much more refined Palacio Noël, home to the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco. The palace would be worth seeing in its own right, but together with the museum, it's one of Buenos Aires' cultural highlights.
When I discovered that The National, one of my favorite bands, was playing in Buenos Aires, I immediately went to their website and bought tickets. Only after the transaction was complete, did I look up the club, and my already dangerously-high levels of giddiness went off the charts. Not only was the Trastienda Club a small venue that guaranteed a great view, it was also just around the block from our San Telmo apartment.