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Going to the Movies – Buenos Aires Cinema Guide

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Buenos Aires has a booming film industry, so it’s unsurprising that there are a number of awesome cinemas in the city. Here are a few that we’ve visited during our time in the capital.

Movie Theater Buenos Aires
Teatro Premier

Showing a wide range of films from Europe, the US and Argentina, the Premier Theatre is one of the most classic cinemas in Buenos Aires. Found in the theater district on Av. Corrientes, the concave art-deco facade from 1944 is definitely a standout, with its laurel-bearing statues standing guard. When we visited, the facade was unfortunately covered by scaffolding and advertising, but no bother: the cheap tickets made up it.

Location on our Buenos Aires Map
We saw: Baarìa

Cine Gaumont

Found on Plaza del Congreso, the Cine Gaumont is run by INCAA — the National Institute of Cinema and Audiovisual Arts — and only shows newer Argentine movies. It was built just a couple years after the Premier, and enjoys a similar, classic feel. If you’re in the mood for a little Spanish practice, this is a great place to see the best films that Argentine cinema has to offer.

Location on our Buenos Aires Map
We saw: Sin Retorno

Cinemark – Puerto Madero

Art-house, schmart-house, give me some Hollywood blockbusters! When you’re in that mood, you can head down to Puerto Madero for the modern Cinemark theater. Here, eight screens (including 3D) show brand new films in original language, with Spanish subtitles. They run a lot of specials; we took advantage of a 2 for 1 summer special, making the cost of entry about US $3.50 apiece. Not bad.

Location on our Buenos Aires Map
We saw: True Grit

Lorca

Smack dab in the middle of the theater district on Corrientes, the Lorca feels like the kind of cinema your groovy parents probably went to back in the 70s. Everything about this place screams retro, from the crazy brown color scheme to the carpets, and the somewhat outdated projector. Right next to the Uruguay Subte stop, the Lorca is easy to reach, and features new releases. Though, classic films like Shaft would feel more appropriate.

Location on our Buenos Aires Map
We saw: Winter’s Bone

La Ventana Indiscreta

La Ventana Indiscreta Bar Cultural — named after the Spanish translation for Alfred Hitchcock’s Rear Window — is a cool little club which plays a single film a week, always something classic; always something that you should have seen as a self-respecting cinema geek, but haven’t yet. Even when movies aren’t being shown, it’s a cool bar to hang out in and, with the University of Cinema so nearby, always populated with hip young porteños.

Location on our Buenos Aires Map
We saw: Le Beau Serge

Cine Lorca
Tetro Premier
Fancy Movie
Cine Art
Old Movie Theater
Movie Knights
Criticker Buenos Aires
Movie Kino
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May 1, 2011 at 8:32 pm Comments (2)

The National Library

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Modern Architecture in Books

Surely the strangest building in Recoleta is the futuristic Biblioteca Nacional, a wildly modern structure near the staid Museum of Fine Arts.

National Library Argentina

Argentina’s national library has moved around a lot since its inception in 1810. First, it occupied a building in Montserrat’s Manzana de las Luces (Illuminated Block), which has become a cool place to go souvenir shopping. A century later, the library moved into a new building on Calle Mexico, originally designed for the National Lottery. We took a peek inside. It’s now the national center for music, but the guard allowed us into the lobby, and pointed out curious design elements like lottery balls worked into the stair railing. Jorge Luis Borges worked in this building after being appointed director of the library in 1955.

The current building wasn’t opened until 1993, a date that I first assumed must be wrong. The bold, gray Brutalist-style construction feels straight out of the 1960s. And indeed, that’s when the mammoth structure was actually designed. But work suspensions, budget restraints and politics plagued construction for over 30 years. By the time it opened, the audacious new building was already long-since architecturally outmoded.

Still, it’s an impressive block of concrete, and the exterior patio offers a great view over Recoleta. There’s a nice cafe below, and the library offers daily guided visits, often in English. Among the treasures you can see inside the library are a first-edition of Don Quijote and a Gutenberg Bible from 1455.

Biblioteca Nacional
Location on our Buenos Aires Map
Buenos Aires Index

Balcony Art
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Hiking Buenos Aires
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May 1, 2011 at 7:24 pm Comments (0)

Day Trip to Colonia del Sacramento

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A visit to Colonia del Sacramento is one of the easiest and most popular day trips you can take from Buenos Aires. Cheekily referred to by porteños as the city’s 49th barrio, Colonia actually belongs to Uruguay. We recently took the slow ferry across the river to check out this beautifully upheld colonial village.

Amazing Buenos Aires

The Rio de la Plata widens incredibly as it empties into the Atlantic Ocean, and our ferry needed three hours to make the journey. There are faster, more expensive boats, but we were in the mood for a leisurely ride. The seats were comfortable and, after a quick breakfast in the on-board café, we both fell asleep. At noon, we arrived in Uruguay, refreshed and eager to explore.

Founded by the Portuguese in 1680, Colonia is the oldest town in Uruguay. In the course of a tumultuous history, it’s changed hands eleven times, mainly between the competing powers of Portugal and Spain. Miraculously, its historic center has survived intact; colonial-era houses and charmingly irregular street patterns persist into the present day. Colonia has been included on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites, officially recognized as a global treasure.

After leaving the ferry, we walked into the old town through the Portón de Campo, a 17th-century drawbridge and gate. Sturdy white-washed houses, seemingly as old as the trees growing alongside them, line cobblestone streets with drains running down the center of them. Vintage cars putter noisily down the streets. There was just one modern sound that kept snapping me out of the trance of antiquity: Jürgen’s machine-gun camera clicking.

Colonia Del Sacramento

Our first touristy stop was the faro, or lighthouse. Despite being rather stunted for a lighthouse, it allows a perfect view over the Plaza Mayor. And the light exercise of climbing all those stairs certainly earned us a break, so we made a beeline for the cozy furniture of Lentas Maravillas, a chic casa-restaurante where we sampled Uruguayan wine while looking out over the river.

Nearly every restaurant and shop in Colonia accepts both Argentine pesos and US dollars. But the city’s museums don’t; rather than waste time hunting down an exchange place, we skipped on them entirely, figuring it’d be more fun to spend the afternoon poking around the town’s alleys and shops. Venturing outside the historic center, we encountered the beaches — Colonia has beautiful beaches running along the coast for miles — and later sat down for beers on Calle Comercio.

It was about as stress-free as a day could be. Activity-wise, there isn’t a whole lot to do in Colonia, which gives you ample excuse to simply settle into the town’s tranquil rhythm and enjoy being there. Before our ship left back for Buenos Aires, we had dinner at a cool pop-art themed restaurant called Blanco y Negro. It was too early, but the waiter was like, “Whatever, just grab a seat anywhere. No big deal”. I get the feeling that in gorgeous, quiet Colonia, nothing is ever a big deal. A great escape.

Travel Unsurance

Ferry Terminal
God Is Watching
Raising the Flag
Puerto Madero
Container Buenos Aires
Lighthouse Buenos Aires
Modern Buenos Aires
Pier Buenos Aires
Bye Bye Buenos Aires
Uruguay Flag
Sailing Sailor
Morning Breeze
Colonia Welcome
Harbor Colonia
Modern Nature
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Peace Horse
Porton de Campo
Calle Los Suspiros
Calle Commercio
Colonia Uruguay
Living Room Restaurant
Food Uruguay
Cute Colonia
Real Life Pac Man
Art Uruguay
Lighthouse Uruguay
Uruguay
Tree Line
Weird Tree
Colonia Church
Bushy
Lonely Dude
Water Element
Sweet Darling
Fancy Dog
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Uruguay Tin
Old Beetle
Old Cars
Day Trip Buenos Aires
Colonia
Pedro Colonia
Spanish Moss
Spanish Moss Uruguay
Tree Cafe
Pilsen Uruguay
Uruguay Blog
Sleepy Dog
Sunset Uruguay
Night Car
Ghost Tree
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May 1, 2011 at 4:20 pm Comment (1)

Buenos Aires Thunder

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BA is Cool

We arrived in Buenos Aires in the late summer, and as the season changed into fall, have seen some spectacular weather. The city is all cement and humanity, but the earth and skies never let you forget who’s really in control.

Buenos Aires 2011
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April 30, 2011 at 9:18 pm Comments (0)

Get Your Burger Fix at The Office

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I’m not sure why a restaurant would want to call itself The Office: a word with horrendous connotations for most of humanity. When we lived in Valencia, Spain, there were two: The Office and La Oficina. And both were great! Almost as though they were trying extra-hard to prove that offices don’t have to suck. Buenos Aires’ The Office, in Palermo, adheres to that trend.

The Office

The Office is an USA-style bar and grill in the Cañitas section of Palermo, serving up a wide range of burgers, along with staples like chicken wings, cheese fries, ranch dressing, onion rings and nachos. The main draw is an incredible terrace, perfect for mild evenings, where there’s a big screen showing classic films every week.

We were invited by the owner to try out the burgers: finally, a big, hearty, US-style burger in Buenos Aires. I must have been unconsciously jonesing for a taste of home, because I devoured my burger in no time flat. Not even sure I bothered to chew. I went with la clásica, while Jürgen had a BBQ Bacon burger that was insanely topped with onion rings. As an appetizer, we ordered a generous portion of chunky guacamole. I had no room for dessert, but the brownies looked so delicious. Just as Bruce Banner unwillingly becomes the Hulk when angry, when mild-mannered, fitness-conscious Mike Powell sees a brownie like that, he transforms into something unholy. With a furious grunt of angered impatience, I ordered the brownie and mampfed it down in one terrifying gulp.

As you might expect, The Office is popular with US expats, but it’s also well-represented by porteños especially during movie nights. If you’re in Palermo and find yourself in need of a burger-fix, check it out.

The Office
Arevalo 3031
Location on our Buenos Aires Map
2050 3942

Quesadilla
Fat Burger
Brownie
Feast is Over
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April 30, 2011 at 8:44 pm Comments (2)

Day Trip to Tigre

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Tigre Hotels and Hostels

South America’s second-longest river, the Paraná, begins in Brazil and flows south, etching out the border between Paraguay and Argentina. Before emptying into the Rio de la Plata, the river extends into a flood plain which reaches 200 miles in length and nearly 40 miles in width. The city of Tigre, with a population of 30,000, is found near the delta’s end.

Catamaran Tigre

Tigre is named for the jaguars that once lived in the area, whom settlers mistakenly pegged as tigers. It was founded in 1820 and was a small backwater port until the Buenos Aires elite moved in at the turn of the century, building mansions and establishing rowing clubs. Modern Tigre has retained much of its splendor from those golden days, which we saw firsthand when visiting one sunny weekend afternoon.

Reaching Tigre couldn’t be easier or cheaper. A train ride from Retiro takes about an hour, and will set you back about 50 cents. Upon arriving, we went straight to the water. Small taxi boats and larger sight-seeing catamarans depart regularly from docks near the train station, and we hopped on the first one we could.

The Paraná Delta is immense, and the hour-long boat trip gave us only the briefest glance at the winding waterways and stilted houses which border the river. People who live here have to use boats to get home. The alluvial scenery was so lush and serene, we could have spent the whole day happily touring the rivers and looking at houses. But the rest of the town awaited.

Tigre is small, and a tour through downtown, with its odd mix of impressive old architecture and ugly modern constructions, doesn’t take much time. Soon, we reached the Mercado de Frutas, which is Tigre’s main attraction aside from the delta itself. A literalist, I was expecting a collection of fruit stands. But it’s actually comprised of home, garden and crafts stores.

Tigre is an uncomplicated day trip from Buenos Aires, and we really enjoyed ourselves, especially on the boat trip. In fact, we were so taken by the beauty of the delta that we made plans to spend our final week in Argentina renting a cabin and relaxing by the river. A more restful place to get away from the city is hard to imagine.

Tigre Tourism (Spanish)
Location of Tigre on our Buenos Aires Map
Travel Insurance

Amusement Park Tigre
Tigre Harbor
Cute Boat
Isla Bonita
Shopping Boat
Stranded Tigre
Washing Machine Tigre
Tigre Boat Taxi
Tigre Gas Station
Lonely Boat
Casa Azul Tigre
Pots And Pans
Bamboo Boys
Rowing Tigre
Market Tigre
Rasta Dog
Villan Dog
Rowing Tigre
Mercado Fruita
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April 30, 2011 at 8:26 pm Comments (2)

Café Tortoni

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Buenos Aires’ oldest and most famous coffee shop is Café Tortoni, just a few blocks west of the Plaza de Mayo. A gorgeous space which has been serving porteños since 1858, the café is usually toward the top of everyone’s “must-see” list. For good reason.

Reading the Menu

The oft-photographed Parisian-font logo above the front door betrays the café’s origins. Tortoni was founded in 1857 by a French immigrant, who named it after his favorite coffee shop in Paris. It quickly gained a foothold among the people of Buenos Aires, and was the first of many cafés that would sprout up around the city toward the end of the 19th century. A host of famous people have been patrons, from Borges and Federico García Lorca, to Albert Einstein and Hillary Clinton.

Inside, Tortoni is spacious and beautifully decorated with stained glass windows, wooden furniture and old pictures on the walls. There’s a billiards room, and a couple smaller salons used for concerts and tango performances, as well. The cafe has done a splendid job maintaining its spirit of authenticity, despite the crowds and camera flashes. If possible, try and go on a weekday; there are still a few hours when Tortoni calms down, and you can fully immerse yourself in its charm.

Café Tortoni
Av. de Mayo 825/29
Location on our Buenos Aires Map
Tel: 4342 4328

Everything we have done in Buenos Aires

Tortoni
Tea Time Buenos Aires
Cafe Tortoni
Tortoni Waiters
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April 30, 2011 at 7:08 pm Comments (0)

Watching Soccer in Buenos Aires, Part 2: San Lorenzo

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Going to a soccer match in a city filled to the brim with quality teams shouldn’t be a difficult task. But finding a ticket for one of the top two clubs, River Plate and Boca Juniors, can be a miserable affair. We’ve already written about our frustrating experience at a Boca Juniors match, and now continue with the much better time we had at San Lorenzo.

San Lorenzo Soccer Stadium
April 16th: San Lorenzo 1 – 1 Lanús

The Tickets
Informed by the experience of getting Boca tickets, I showed up to the San Lorenzo office on Avenida de Mayo plenty early and fully pessimistic. But I needn’t have worried. The line was small, and I soon found myself deep in conversation with the guy ahead of me. A lifelong San Lorenzo fan, he took me under his wing, explaining the history of the club and insisting we sit next to him and his son (whom he wanted me to speak English with). The tickets, in the seated section, nineteen rows up and directly in the middle of the field, were 90 pesos — exactly four times cheaper than what we had paid for the “popular” section in the Bombonera. Incredible.

San Lorenzo Amigos

Pregame
Again, such a difference from Boca Juniors, where we had no taste of the pre-match atmosphere. There, we’d been part of a tourist group kept separate from “normal” fans, deposited in a garage for crap-tastic pizza and beer, then brought to our seats 90 minutes before the game even started.

We were blessedly on our own for the San Lorenzo match, and in fact didn’t see any other tourists the entire day. Arriving at the team’s Nuevo Gasómetro stadium in Flores, we went straight to the club restaurant which was packed with fans clad in red and blue — hoping to blend in, I bought a ball cap, and we sat down for a US-style meal of hamburgers and Coca-Cola. As is the case throughout Argentina, no alcohol is sold during or before games. Given the already-fiery state of the fans, that’s probably a good thing.

Bellies full, we entered the stadium and found our seats next to the guy I’d met the day before. His kid was way too shy to speak English with us, but we all had a good time. Sitting with real fans in the seated section (the platea) was sooooo much better than with a bunch of fellow tourists in the fan curve (the popular). At Boca, I’d spent the match listening to an Australian brag about running with the bulls in Pamplona. Here, we were with a porteño explaining the lyrics of the songs that the hinchadas were singing, introducing the various players (the team’s best man has the awesome nick-name of Pipi), and telling us about the stadium.

San Lorenzo Fans

The Stadium & Atmosphere
If I had a complaint about our trip to San Lorenzo, it would be that the stadium is too new, and wasn’t filled to capacity. And it’s found in a nasty area of Buenos Aires. San Lorenzo plays in Flores, but identifies itself strongly with the more central neighborhood of Bodeo. The team’s old stadium, the Gasómetro, was located there until 1979 when it was forced to close by the military dictatorship. A true shame — the old stadium had a capacity of 75,000, tons of history and was known as “The Wembeley of Buenos Aires”. A grass-roots movement is currently advocating the club’s return to Bodeo, under the Law of Historical Reparations: an attempt to rectify some of the wrongs perpetrated upon the city’s people by the military junta.

We wish them luck! The club deserves to play in its own neighborhood. Although the Nuevo Gasómetro wasn’t completely full during the early afternoon game we attended, the fan curve definitely was. And it was every bit as wild as Boca Juniors’. From the Platea, we had a great view of the hinchadas, who filled the stadium with their songs, swaying, jumping, confetti and flags. One fat guy, who our friend referred to as El Gordo Ventilador danced and swung his shirt in a circle over his head for the whole 90 minutes. An impressive display of stamina — he features prominently in our video, below.

The game was great, as well, though the fans were disappointed to see San Lorenzo’s 1-0 lead disappear shortly before the end. Still, I’ll not soon forget the collective insanity which gripped the stadium after that first goal. Pipi has been struggling with injury this season, and only entered the game in the second half. Almost immediately upon touching the pitch, he assisted on the goal … the crowd went nuts. I looked over worriedly at our new friend, who’d ripped his shirt off and was screaming at the top of his lungs, red-faced.

Soccer Dude

Overall…
… our trip to San Lorenzo was leagues more fun than Boca. This has mainly to do with the fact that we had booked one of the tourist-oriented packages for Boca Juniors, so it’s not an entirely fair comparison. If it had been possible to buy normal tickets to Boca, we would certainly have had a much better time — but the point is that it wasn’t possible.

At San Lorenzo, we were a real part of the scene. We paid about US $20 for incredible seats in the middle of the field and had the opportunity to meet lifelong fans. So many people only consider River Plate or Boca as options when they’re visiting Buenos Aires, but it definitely pays to broaden the selection. Besides San Lorenzo, you could go to a match at Huracán, whose art-deco stadium is supposed to be incredible, or Racing Club in Avellaneda, known for the fierce loyalty of its hinchada.

Watching Soccer in Buenos Aires, Part 1: Boca Juniors
Location of the San Lorenzo Ticket Office
Location of the Nueva Gasómetro
Soccer.com

Biggest Soccer Fan
Soccer Smile Face
Slum Soccer
Old Soccer Fan
Confetti Striptease
Goalie
San Lorenzo Player
Lorenzo Soccer
Happy Goal
Tired Fan
San Lorenzo Tattoo
Soccer Buenos Aires
Soccer Betting Buenos Aires
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April 30, 2011 at 1:56 pm Comments (12)

Watching Soccer in Buenos Aires, Part 1: Boca Juniors

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Maradona’s Golden Days

River Plate, Veléz, Racing, Boca Juniors, Argentinos Juniors, Independiente, San Lorenzo, Tigre, Huracán, All Boys… if you want to check out a soccer match in Buenos Aires, there are more than enough opportunities. Foreigners typically flock to the Bombonera to watch Boca Juniors, or the Monumental: home of River Plate. These are by far the two biggest teams in terms of success and support and clashes between them, known as superclásicos, are the stuff of legend.

I’m a huge soccer fan, so it was a given that I’d drag Jürgen along to at least one match. And in fact, we went to two. First to Boca Juniors, then San Lorenzo. Both were interesting experiences, though I wish I would been armed with the knowledge I now possess. Here’s Part One of our Buenos Aires Fútbol Odyssey. Check out Part Two, here.

Boca Juniors Tickets
March 20th: Boca Juniors 0 – 2 Olimpo

The Tickets
Boca Juniors are hugely popular, and normal tickets have become impossible to purchase. I waited in a line for two hours with a few hundred other people, before we were told that no tickets would be sold to the general public. The outrage among the group of mostly Argentinian fans was understandable — why did they make us wait so long, just to tell us that? Later, I would learn from reading online forums, that this has been the pattern since at least the beginning of the year.

The thing is … there are tickets available, and plenty of them. Boca has learned that any tickets which don’t go to their club members can be sold for much, much more money through hotels and tour operators. So, normal Argentines at the stadium booths are out of luck: all the tickets have been sold to package operators who jack up the price obscenely.

The upside of this scheme is, if you’re willing to shell out, it’s easy to get a ticket. The tour operators are a dime a dozen and, even the day of the game, you can find tickets. The downside is, the prices are exorbitant.

Not willing to miss out on the “Boca Experience”, we gritted our teeth and chose one of the tour operators. The offer was “Free Beer and Pizza” before the game, plus transport to and from the stadium. The tickets were in the Popular Section, and at 360 pesos, were nine times face value. The price seemed to be standard across all the tour operators we found, and at least we would be getting our money’s worth… right?!

Boca Juniors Player

Pregame
Along with about 20 other foreigners, we were bused to the stadium three hours before game time. Our guides grouped us together like schoolchildren, cut past the line of “normal” fans, and dumped us in a garage for the pizza and beer. There were two pizzas for the entire group. Not everyone even got a slice, and it was the cheapest, most disgusting pizza I’d ever tried to ingest. Fake plastic cheese, and the beer was a joke, too.

Anyway, we weren’t there for pizza. We were ushered into the stadium 90 minutes before kickoff and then just sat there waiting. Apparently, it was “too dangerous” to have us enter with the regular fans. What nonsense. By the time the game actually started, everyone was already tired and annoyed. I’m so sick of this attitude that tourists have to be afraid of regular porteños. It’s a falsehood promoted by charlatans, who can wring even more money out of foreigners by “protecting” them. “You’ll have to be bused in and out with special guards! You won’t be safe! Book with us, or you’ll be mugged in an alley! These people are animals!” Give me a break.

Crazy Boca Juniors Fans

The Stadium & Atmosphere
Regardless, the Bombonera is incredible. Even though Boca played atrociously and limped off the field after a well-deserved defeat, the atmosphere in the stadium was constantly upbeat. Singing, chanting, crazy fans (hinchadas) climbing up scaffolding, flags, confetti, etc.

So, during the game, I was really happy. But before we were able to leave the stadium, we had to wait until the opposing team’s fans had cleared out. Then our group had to wait until the normal fans in the popular section had also cleared out. Because we were helpless, silly children that needed protection from regular people. God forbid we leave the stadium with them. Sigh, it meant another hour of sitting around.

How To Watch Boca Juniors

Overall…
… the game was fun, but it was a terrible evening. We got back home with the full knowledge that we had been ripped off; that we had paid tons of money, and weren’t even able to experience the true joy of attending a match … sitting around a pub before the game begins, meeting local fans or being a part of the action. If I had it to do over, I would skip Boca entirely.

And if I absolutely had to go to the Bombonera again, I would buy tickets from a scalper. That’s a terrible thing to suggest, so I’m not suggesting you do this. But, shit. I would. I would pick the cleanest, nicest looking scalper, and buy a ticket from him.

The Bombonera on our Buenos Aires Map
Soccer.com

Magic Fall
Fan Sandwich
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April 29, 2011 at 10:25 pm Comments (5)

Buenos Aires Bits and Pieces

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Dangerous Buenos Aires

Ready for another random dump of pictures? These are some I took during the San Telmo fair, at the Museo Santo Domingo on Belgrano and Defensa, and other locations at times I found striking. Hope you like them!

Film Set Buenos Aires
Church San Telmo
Flame Guard
Psycho Barbies
Souvenirs Buenos Aires
Shoe Maker Buenos Aires
Angel Wall
San Telmo Art
Malcom Rox
Street Artist Buenos Aires
Secret Buenos Aires
Very Modern Art
Taller
Cute Porteño
Cage Burger
Balcony
Magical Nights
Buenos Aires Wet Nights
Munich Buenos Aires
Charlie Psycho
Mega Milonga
San Telmo
Sci Fi Buenos Aires
April 29, 2011 at 4:15 pm Comments (3)

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