Once: Shopping, Synagogues and Naked Presidents
The neighborhood of Balvanera is so large that, when talking about it, residents usually split it up into a number of unofficial sub-barrios.
For 91 Days we lived in Buenos Aires. The capital of Argentina, and the home of tango, this is one of the world’s most vibrant cities, and we had an incredible time getting to know its culture, cuisine and people. Three months was hardly enough to properly explore all the neighborhoods, from San Telmo to Palermo, but we tried our best!
Whether you're planning your own journey to Buenos Aires, or just interested in seeing what makes it such a special city, our articles and photographs should help you out.
Buenos Aires Vice
I can see why so many movies and advertisements are produced in Buenos Aires. Set up the camera in a certain angle and location and you can shoot scenes representing spots from all around the world. I would have never guessed that this ad supposedly shot during the La Tomatina in Buñol was actually filmed in San Telmo!
The Museum of Modern Art
Occupying an old tobacco factory on Avenida San Juan, the Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires (MAMBA).
A Sixteen Course Feast at La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar
Make sure your mind is open and taste buds in fine working order before you sit down at La Vineria de Guaterio Bolivar, on Calle Bolivar in San Telmo. Dinner is a set menu, with sixteen highly creative dishes served over the course of three hours.
Riding the Bus
After watching a few barrel at breakneck speed down San Telmo's tiny cobblestone streets, more inclined to use their horns than breaks when approaching an intersection, we concluded that buses must be the fastest way to get around Buenos Aires. And funnest.
Buenos Aires’ Notable Bars – El Federal
One of the best parts of moving to a new city is deciding upon your favorite new bar, the place you plan on haunting with a disturbingly constant presence. Buenos Aires has assisted newcomers on this all-important quest by honoring 60 bars and cafés with the distinction of Bar Notable.
The Metropolitan Cathedral
On one of our first days in Buenos Aires, we approached the dour neo-classical building on the northwest corner of the Plaza de Mayo without having any idea what it could be. My best guess was a courthouse, with those massive stone columns that evoke the Parthenon, and I was surprised to discover a cathedral behind the facade.
Pedro Telmo – Good Cooking in San Telmo
We've been eating out a lot since we arrived, mainly at places which have come highly recommended by guidebooks or locals. Great parrillas, Peruvian cuisine, famous pizzerias. But that doesn't mean we're skipping the less well-known places entirely! This past week, after a long day of exploring the city, we sat down inside Pedro Telmo, on the western side of the San Telmo Market.
Tour of the Casa Rosada
The US might have the White House, but Argentina has the Pink House. The Casa Rosada at the eastern extreme of the Plaza de Mayo is the seat of the country's government, where the President and her staff work.
Parrilla Desnivel
No type of restaurant is more characteristic of Buenos Aires than the parrilla. Just around our neighborhood, there are at least six hundred thousand parrillas.
